I have been so busy with my writing and my other three blogs, I haven't posted here for almost a year. I think it's time to change that. If you're interested, you can find my other blogs at olbigjim , The Left Wright Brain, and Canaan Dogs. In olbigjim, you'll find author interviews, book reviews, and lots of other goodies. The Left Wright Brain consists mostly of random writings and excerpts from my published book, New Yesterdays, and the sequel, a work in progress. Canaan Dogs is semi-dormant at the moment. It's for excerpts from my "Magnum Opus".
Now then, just sit back and relax, and leave the driving to me. Let's visit some of the highlights of Jordan as a way of getting back on track, shall we?
This is the stage area of an ampitheatre in Jerash (known in biblical times as Jerasa). Notice how well preserved it is! At fixed times all during the day a group of Bedouin musicians entertain guests with drums and bagpipes. Yes, bagpipes!
A shepherd, near where I live, tending his flock. Even though we live in the capital city, we still have to be wary of sheep and goats in the streets. It sure makes for interesting driving!
We're surrounded by olive trees, many of which date all the way back to the Roman Occupation when Jesus lived and roamed in this area.
I hope this post will whet your appetite and make you want to come back for more! I'll be posting here again, once or twice a month. Be sure to subscribe to the blog to make sure you don't miss a single post!
Is there something particular in Jordan you'd like to know more about? Send me an email or make a comment here and I'll get right on it!
No country in the Middle East, except Palestine/Israel has nearly as many Biblical associations as Jordan. Prophet Lot and his daughters escaped Sodom and Gomorrah and lived in a cave near Dead Sea, Prophet Moses looked across the Jordan Valley from Mount Nebo at the ‘Promised Land’ he would never see. Prophet Jesus was baptized in River Jordan at Bethany and not far from there Prophet Elijah ascended in a fiery chariot. I always tell visitors that in any place you put your foot in this country, the chances are very good that one of the holy men and women of the Bible and Qur’an walked in that very same spot.
South of Amman, all the way down at the southeastern tip of the Dead Sea lies Biblical Zoar. It was here that Prophet Lot and his daughters lived after the Destruction. For the past thirty years archaeologists have been digging in that area and have discovered an astonishing array of religions and cultures, some dating back as far as the Early Bronze Age. Nabataeans, Jews, Christians are all represented there.
Author Konstantinos Politis has published Death at the Dead Sea that what is quite possibly the largest graveyard in the ancient world is here at Zoar. So far, he has discovered that burials in Zoar go back as far as Early Bronze Age I-II (3100-2600 BCE). The Nabaetaeans came to the area around 2500 years later, burying their dead at Khirbet Qazone, about 25 km north of Zoar. Ancient burials, more than 5000 in all, have been found dating between 1st century BCE and 4th century CE. Jewish families began to inhabit the area then and set about farming and raising dates. A great many Jewish tombstones demonstrate their presence there.
Jewish Tombstone
The Byzantine era (4th – 6th centuries CE) saw the rise of Christianity in the region of Zoar. They built a monastery near Lot’s cave and eventually the town became a major Bishopric. Literally hundreds of Greek-inscribed tombstones from the Byzantine era have been discovered. Sadly, a great many of the graves have been robbed and destroyed, but quite a large number have been found intact. More than 400 Greek and Aramaic that had been looted have been recovered by Politis and his team.
Christian Tombstone
You can learn a great deal more about the ancient tombstones from Zoar at Biblical Archaeology Review's articles written by Steven Fine and Kalliope I Kritikakou-Nikolaropoulou's Tales From Tombstones in the March/April 2012 issue.
This post is not about travel in the traditional sense. Our boy does travel, yes; but where he goes is completely different. Check out my newest book, New Yesterdays, Changed Tomorrows and see what young Jim is getting up to now.
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Once upon a time there were three brothers growing up in the countryside just outside Piedmont, in northeast Alabama. One of these boys embarked on an adventure that might change not only his life and the lives of his family, but in the life of the United States of America.
One word from him can divide the nation, prevent many thousands of deaths and put the country on a completely new track. Will he resist the temptation or give in to the whisperings of his heart?
The book is on sale for Kindle. If you do not have a Kindle, free software is available at the Amazon.com website that will allow you to read it on your PC or laptop.
I hope you’ll get the book and enjoy it as much as I enjoyed telling the story for you!
In 1977 His Majesty, the late King Hussein ordered the establishment of a national memorial to soldiers who fell in the line of duty since the Great Arab Revolt of 1916-1919. The result was the Martyrs' Memorial, designed by Victor Adel Bisharat (1920-1996), enshrining the memory of those who gave their lives for their country. The structure was located at the summit of a pine-forested hill and is approached by a steep incline. Verses from the Holy Qur’an are inscribed on the walls of the shortened pyramid structure of white stone.
The memorial begins with the Great Arab Revolt against the Ottoman Empire. The revolt, which included 100,000 Arabs united under the leadership of Sharif Hussein bin Ali, began on 10 June 1916. It was not a strictly Jordanian war. It was an Arab revolt against non-Arab occupation. One year later Aqaba was wrestled from Ottoman control, and on 25 January 1918 the Ottoman Empire was totally routed.
A key target of the revolt was the relatively new Hejaz Railroad, which was the backbone of Ottoman communication. Interestingly, the exploits of “Lawrence of Arabia” (TE Lawrence, 1888-1935) and his attack on the railroad, as well as his famous role in fighting the Ottomans, is missing.
Astonishingly enough, the Amman-Damascus segment of the Hejaz Railroad still carried passengers until very recently. Dingy, authentic trains departed Amman on Monday and Thursday at 0800 and returned later the same day. A trip to Mafraq on the Jordanian side of the border, without entry into Syria, can be a delightfully unique experience.
Abdullah bin Hussein next lead the Trans-Jordan, first as leader of the Emirate created in 1923, and later as King. In 1930 he appointed John Bagot Glubb (1897-1986) to establish the Desert Patrol. From 1939 until 1956 Glubb served as commander of the Arab Legion, the name given to the Jordanian army at the time. It was under his able leadership that the Legion fought against Israeli forces during their “War of Independence”.
The museum houses models recreating 1948 battles in Bab El-Wad/Latrun. The Arab goal was to cut the communication and supply lines between besieged Jerusalem and Zionist forces in the Tel Aviv and Shefela areas. Another of the items in the memorial is a large painting (to the left of the entrance) depicting a fierce battle at Herod's Gate in 1948.
The years that followed saw repeated conflict with Israel. There were Jordanian successes as well as Israeli successes. Amongst the items on display in the museum are captured Israeli military rations and an IDF (Israeli Defense Force) rifle.
The Six Day War receives little treatment in the museum, but the 1968 Battle of Karameh is highlighted. The museum does not purport to be an academic chronology of military events. It is a memorial to the fallen, but in a wider sense it is an effort to remember the contribution of the fallen to the success of shaping the modern Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. The Six Day War was a Jordanian military defeat. Karameh, a year later though, was the regaining of Jordanian pride.
In the exhibition mention is also made of Jordanian troops dispatched to the Golan in 1973 and a 1975 border confrontation.
A visit to the Martyrs' Memorial is definitely recommended. It gives better understanding to the history of a country that has shown how differences can be resolved through negotiation.
The museum is located in the Sport City Complex in Amman and can be easily reached by taxi or bus. The opening hours are 9 am to 4 pm Saturday through Thursday and the admission is free. The telephone number for the museum is +96265664240 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting+96265664240end_of_the_skype_highlighting.
Today is the birthday of His Majesty, King Hussein bin Talal, the fortieth generation direct descendant of Prophet Mohammad, who led his country through wars and *turmoil* and saw it become an oasis of peace and stability and inspired a spirit of openness, tolerance and compassion in the Middle East. Jordanians call him Al-Malic Al-Insan, The Humane King. His memory and legacy will serve as an example of guidance to the Kingdom of Jordan for many generations to come.
On 14th November 1935, Prince Talal bin Abdullah and Princess Zein al-Sharaf bint Jamil presented the world with a new son. Having finished his elementary education in Amman, the young Prince attended Victoria College at Alexandria, Egypt and Harrow School in England. His military education was received at the Royal Military Academy, Sandhurst in England.
On 20th July 1951, Hussein was with his grandfather, King Abdullah when he was martyred at al-Aqsa mosque in al-Quds (Jerusalem) as they went in for regular Friday prayers. The King had recently given a medal to Hussein and insisted that he wear it. This medal saved the Prince from the bullet of the assassin.
On 11th August 1952 Hussein was proclaimed King of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, succeeding his brother, King Talal. As he had not yet reached the age of majority, the kingdom was administered by Regency Council. Upon reaching the age of 18, according to the Islamic calendar, King Hussein ascended to the throne on 2nd May 1953. He guided the kingdom for 47 years. At the time of his death he was the longest serving head of state in the world.
His Majesty worked tirelessly to build the kingdom and to raise the standard of living for all Jordanians. He concentrated, in the beginning on building an economic and industrial infrastructure to achieve that goal. The 1960s saw a network of highways built and the development of phosphate, potash and cement industries.
Between 1960 and 1996 the literacy rate of 33% was increased by 85.5% and water, sanitation and electricity, which had been available to only 10% of the population, was increased to a staggering 99% of households. Infant mortality declined more than 47% during his reign. Believing that the greatest asset of Jordan is her people, the King encouraged everyone, including the less fortunate, the disabled and the orphaned to achieve more for themselves and for their country.
The length and breadth of his reign was a struggle to promote peace in the Middle East. He was one of the main drafters of UNSC Resolution 242, calling for Israel to withdraw from the Arab lands occupied in the 1967 war. This resolution still stands as the benchmark for all peace negotiations. He further played a pivotal role in convening the Madrid Peace Conference. The Peace Treaty between Jordan and Israel, signed in
1994 is a major step toward achieving a just, comprehensive and lasting peace in this region.
His Majesty’s peacemaking efforts did not end with the Palestine-Israel conflict. He worked to resolve disputes in all the Arab states, particularly in Iraq and Kuwait in 1990-91 and the Yemeni civil war.
Thanks to King Hussein’s leadership and guidance the Kingdom of Jordan is internationally recognized as having the most exemplary human rights record in the Middle East. His commitment to democracy, human rights and civil liberties has made Jordan a model state for the region. He appointed a Royal Commission in 1990 representing a cross-section of Jordanian political thought to draft a national charter. That charter serves until today as a guideline for democratic institutional and political pluralism in Jordan. The parliamentary elections in 1989, 1993 and 1997 were internationally accredited as among the freest and fairest in the history
of the Middle East.
In his Speech from the Throne, opening the Thirteenth Parliament in 1997, His Majesty said “The role of women today has become more important and crucial than at any other time. The Jordanian woman has excelled in the field of education and succeeded in different professions and contributions in various organizations. Her support of official efforts to serve society and develop the countryside has become stronger. She also began to take part in the political life, becoming an important pillar of the democratic structure. This is why we must all pay serious attention to some of the dangerous phenomena that remain a source of women’s suffering, and which – unfortunately – constitute an inhuman violation of their basic rights. The most serious and dangerous of those is the visible and hidden violence, which was the focus of many international conferences. This does not befit our Arab and Islamic society: the society of solidarity. It is a flagrant contradiction with our ongoing calls to preserve human dignity and all human rights.”
Many books about His Majesty have been written, and he himself wrote three. In 1962 he wrote Uneasy Lies the Head, about his childhood and early years as King. In 1969 he penned My War With Israel and Mon Metier de Roi.
The King was very well known round the world to Ham radio operators who readily recognized the friendly voice of “JY1”. Toward the end of his life King Hussein began surfing the web and learned to appreciate the power of the World Wide Web as a force for progress and understanding. One more aspect of his massive legacy is his directive to provide internet access to every Jordanian school.
Twelve years after his passing His Majesty, King Hussein I is still missed. It’s a rare day that I go out and chat with friends and relatives that his name does not come up. His memory is still fresh in the mind of every Jordanian, and I suspect every Arab. Despite the fact that I came here ten years after his passing, I find that I too have learned an appreciation of and respect for his memory.
I love a train! Riding the train makes me nostalgic for a bygone era I sadly never knew.
The Hejaz Railway was built by the Ottomans between 1900 and 1908, mainly to make it easier to make the pilgrimages to the Muslim holy places in Saudi Arabia. As an added bonus, it gave the Ottoman Turks better control of their far-flung empire. The main line linked Damascus to Medina; a distance of 1,320 km. It passed through Transjordan in Az-Zarqa, Al-Qatranah, Amman and Ma’an before reaching northwestern Arabia the Hejaz region. It was built as an extension of the already existing line between Istanbul and Damascus. Construction fell short of the planned destination of Mecca when the outbreak of the First World War interrupted construction work just as it reached Medina. The primary purpose of the Hejaz railway was to establish a connection between Constantinople and Hejaz in Arabia, the site of the holiest shrines of Islam and the holy city of Mecca, the site of the annual Hajj pilgrimage.
A pilgrimage from Damascus by camel required 40-50 days. As they progressed toward Medina and Mecca, the pilgrims faced many risks including robbery, floods and epidemics in addition to the difficulties and suffering one might expect from such a journey. Sultan Abdel Hamid made the decision to establish a rail line linking Damascus to the holy sites.
The railway replaced the ancient caravan route that was formerly used to transport goods to and from Damascus and Arabia. The unhappy caravan traders saw this new form of transport as a serious threat to their livelihoods, and they made many attempts to disrupt its construction.
Construction, maintenance and security of the line required the services of some 5,000 Ottoman soldiers. The entire operation was enormously difficult, with unpredictable and often hostile local tribesmen, not to mention the difficult terrain. Some areas were very soft and sandy while others were solid rock. There were water shortages to contend with, and variations in the terrain itself made construction difficult. The extremely hot weather coupled with dust and sandstorms and the occasional flash floods washing away bridges and banks threatened the operation even more.
In September, 1900 the Sultan called for Muslims all over the world to collect donations for the construction of the railway. His call received enthusiastic response and support. The cost of the project was estimated at around 5 million Ottoman Golden Lire. In addition to donations, a special tax on all citizens to be served by the train and revenues from the sale of special Ottoman State stamps financed the new line. The costs were reduced by donations of materials from areas adjacent to the line, volunteer laborers, and the employment of members of the army.
Within four years of completion in September 1908 the Hejaz Railway was seeing about 300,000 passengers a year. Not pilgrims only; the Turkish government had begun transporting troops and supplies. During the War (1914-18) a great many attempts were made to disrupt the line and slow the advancing Turkish Army.
The famous British military strategist, TE Lawrence working with the combined Arab forces mined the tracks and derailed several troop trains and carriages. As a result of their sabotage, the track between Ma’an (Jordan) and Medina (Arabia) was irreparably damaged.
At the end of the war, the operative sections of the railroad were taken over by the relevant Syrian, Palestinian and Transjordan governments. Here is an excellent clip about the Hejaz Railway: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Nj0oAP1jXs
After the fall of the Ottoman Empire, the railway never reopened south of the Jordan-Saudi Arabia border. An attempt was made in the mid 1960s, but was abandoned due to the Six Day War in 1967.
In 1952 the Hejaz Jordan Railway was founded and still administers the Jordanian line and invests its real estate properties.
The Jordan Hejaz Railway Museum is located in the Mahatta district, about 2 km east of downtown. The opening hours are Sunday-Thursday 8 am to 2 pm. More information can be obtained by phoning +962 16 489 541 3.
Today the Corporation operates regular passenger trips between Amman and Damascus on Mondays and Thursdays. The train leaves Amman at 8 am and returns from Damascus at 8 am. Trips via diesel trains for school students and families and tourist trips via steam locomotive are available. The passenger capacity on either of the trains is 350.
The southern portion of the railway is used solely by the Aqaba Railway Corporation whose only customer is Jordan Phosphate Mines Company. Phosphate, which is our largest export, is transported from the mines in El-Hasa, Al-Abyadh and Shidyia to Aqaba for shipping. Jordan is the third largest phosphate exporter in the world. Enjoy this video clip of the phosphate trains
The Moabite town of Madaba dates back some 3,500 years and is frequently referred to in the Old Testament. In those days it was known as Medeba and was mentioned in connection to Prophet Moses and the Exodus, as well as several others.
Numbers, chapter 21 describes the revenge taken by Israel on the entire country of Sihon. The Israelites sarcastically expressed compassion for the Moabites because their god, Chemosh failed to deliver them from the hands of their enemies. They then burned the cities of Heshbon, Dibon, Nopah and, in verse 30 "...We have destroyed even to Nopah, the fire did reach to Medeba".
As a descendant of Ruth, David may be said to have Moabite blood in his veins. He even sent his parents to the Moabite King when King Saul was on the rampage (1 Samuel 22:3,4). Good relations deteriorated, though and David waged war against the Moabites who lived around Madaba. King Mesha of Moab staged a rebellion against Israel. The biblical account and that of the Mesha Stele differ as to the outcome of the battle. Each side, naturally, claimed victory. Prophet Isaiah prophesied against Moab in the Moabite Oracles (Isaiah chapters 15, 16).
Mesha Stele, now housed in the Louvre Museum
Madaba became a prosperous ecclesiastical center between the 4th and 7th centuries CE. One of the world's greatest Byzantine mosaic collections was produced here. Many of them are still very well preserved. Some of the church floor mosaics, most notably the Map Mosaic at St George Orthodox Church, can still be seen in their original locations. Others have been moved to the Madaba Archaeological Park for protection and display.
So now, you have a bit of background on Madaba. Last Friday Zeek and I decided to visit our friend, Geries Hamarneh who owns a hotel there. We were also joined by Rami and Jasmin. The front door of his place takes you directly into the restaurant, and what an astonishing place it is! Geries has had the place for a couple of years or so and did much of the restoration work himself. The building itself is quite old, as are most of the buildings in this street. The restaurant is rustic, cosy and inviting. We sat at the first table and I reclined on a couch as we enjoyed our excellent Turkish coffee. The waiter is no slouch as a coffee brewer! It was tasty and refreshing after a morning of nothing but American coffee at home and on the short drive to Madaba.
Queen Ayola Restaurant
Geries, Ol' Big Jim, Jasmin, Rami
Rami, Abozaky, Geries, Ol' Big Jim, Jasmin
Jasmin, Rami
Geries, Ol' Big Jim
After visiting awhile, Geries asked whether I'd been to the Shrine of the Beheading of John the Baptist. When I allowed that I hadn't been there, it was decided that I must see it straightaway. Turns out it was only a few steps us the steeply inclined street and it was well worth the walk!
Stepping through the gate, I was greeted by a row of ancient columns standing guard over the entryway. Beautiful succulent plants were interspersed between the columns and down on the cobbled pavement. One in particular caught my attention. Aunt Frances used to have one; she called it "Crocodile Tears". Well, you know Ol' Big Jim had to collect a few of the "tears" to bring home and plant! As we continued our walk inside I could't help being amused by the whimsical placement of 5-gallon "pickle buckets" holding palm trees perched atop each of the columns.
Ol' Big Jim goin' to church!
The facade of the classic arched basilica design church is adorned by a mosaic (it's Madaba!) over the main door, stained glass made by Latroun Monks in 1958, with a cross attached at the top of the roof. The simplicity and clean lines of the church make it one of the most beautiful in the kingdom.
Have a look at this picture! The geranium is hugely popular over here and is usually planted outside, exhibiting enormous growth. I never saw such growth back in the states! This one though, must be the biggest one I've seen yet! Some of the blossoms were fading, but I can just imagine how beautiful it must be when it's in full bloom. I especially wanted Mother and Aunt Frances to see this.
Inside the little museum is a replica of the mosaic floor from the Church of St Stephen down in Umm Al-Rasas. Like the mosaic map down the street, this floor shows many of the towns of the ancient world such as Madaba, Jerusalem, Philadelphia (Amman) and others. The central field of the original mosaic did not survive the multiple earthquakes and the passage of time, so the artisans filled it in with some gorgeous designs in keeping with the character of the floor.
Reproduction of the floor of the Church of St Stephen in Umm al-Rasas
Standing in the nave of the church, looking at the main altar one cannot help feeling awed and maybe even a bit humbled by the beautiful craftsmanship evident in the Shrine. The mosaics, stained glass, statuary and vaulted ceilings urge reverence and quiet in this place of worship. Just for a second, I thought I was still a practicing Catholic and started looking about for the confessional. I managed to shake it off and we started making our way to the bell tower.
Climbing up and up and up...
I'm not sure just how tall the bell tower is, but Father Yacoub told me it is the highest structure in Madaba. Ninety-nine steps take one to the top. A series of stairs, both straight and curved (lighthouse style), and ladders led us upward past the bells and out onto the tiny, narrow balcony that surrounds the top. The commanding view of the countryside surrounding Madaba were breathtaking! The church sexton loaned us binoculars and a telescope to enhance our site seeing experience.
Geries, Jasmin, Rami
I was just lookin' back to see if you were lookin' back to see...
A tight squeeze for Ol' Big Jim!
Had to take off my shoes to back down the ladder
I rang his bell!
This wall is all that was left of one of the original houses of ancient Madaba; the traditional facade of the house of Ibrahim Twal was incorporated into the wall of the church entrance square. This, along with the ancient stone watering troughs, plants and trees create a quiet, serene spot that begs to be enjoyed. I believe I could easily have spent the entire day just sitting there, enjoying the solitude.
After the climb and descent from, the tower. Geries led us down under the church. Down two flights of stairs we found ourselves in a grotto of ancient arched rooms that is now the Acropolis Museum consisting of the grotto of the Beheading of St John the Baptist, a place of vows and an exhibition of the most significant Madaba mosaics. Down one more flight is an ancient Moabite well that's around 3,000 years old. We drew a bucket of some of the coldest, most refreshing water I ever had!
Following our visit, I met the parish Priest, Father Yacoub Rafidi. Father is a quiet, unassuming man with a scholarly, dignified persona. His warm eyes and smile make you know you are welcome in this place. After giving me a brief history of the Shrine, he told me that it is believed that there is a mosaic floor under the main altar of the church. Excavations will begin in December to determine what is there. This is exciting news and now I'm all in a dither to know what will be found. I'll definitely be paying return visits to check on the progress of the dig!
Jim, Fr Yacoub, Geries
After that very interesting excursion, Zeek, Geries and I returned to Queen Ayola to have a bite to eat. Only one word is needed to describe that meal: OUTSTANDING!
Our chef, Bady
You know me, though, I can't stop with just one word... Ba'donsieh is a dish I'd never had before. It consists of parsley in tahini and a bit of yogurt. It was unbelievably good. There were two chicken dishes; fajita and sajieh. This was also my first time for sajieh. It won't be the last! It's chicken and onions coked with spices. It was probably 7-spice, but I don't know that for sure...yet. I will be trying to get that recipe, though. The fajita was pure Mexican and beautifully done. This most excellent meal was rounded out with a crisp, tasty Greek salad, a wonderfully tart and tangy tabouleh salad and pita. Queen Ayola serves food fit for a king!
If you are reading this post, you really should consider coming to Jordan for a visit. The country is safe and secure and the natives are friendly and welcoming. A week or two spent here will afford you the opportunity to see many sites you have only read about in scripture and history. Zeek and I will be more than happy to arrange an itinerary for you that ensures you see everything possible!
If you haven't taken the time to watch the video Zeek made, have a look at it right away. After watching it, contact us for a tour!
One more for Mother, Jenny and all the plant lovers
