12 May 2011

Umm al-Jimal, and Desert Castles

“Far out in the desert, in the midst of a rolling plain, beside the dry bed of an ancient stream, there is a deserted city.... The walls of the ancient deserted city, its half-ruined gates, the towers and arches of its churches, the two and three-story walls of its mansions, all of basalt, rise black and forbidding from the grey of the plain. Many of the buildings have fallen in ruins, but many others preserve their ancient form in such wonderful completeness, that, to the traveler approaching them from across the plain, or viewing them with the aid of a field glass from the nearest crests of the Djebel Haur'n, the deserted ruin appears like a living city, all of black, rising from a grey-white sea” (H. C. Butler, Princeton Expedition to Syria II, 1913: 149-50).  The words of Butler as he approached Umm al-Jimal are far superior to any words I might craft in an attempt to convey the majesty of these beautiful ruins in northern Jordan. Driving down the lane leading to the town, seeing the ruins beginning to come into view made my heartbeat just a bit faster and my breaths just a bit shallower. I was so excited to see this marvel of basalt I could barely 
contain my excitement!

Umm al-Jimal (Mother of the Camel) is remarkable because of the substantial ruins of a Byzantine and early Islamic town that are clearly visible above ground. The town was first settled in the 2nd century CE after the famed Emperor Trajan annexed the Nabatean Empire into the Roman Empire and called it Arabia Petraea. Queen Zenobia (Julia Aurelia Zenobia Cleopatra), the ruler of Syria decided to revolt against the Romans in the mid-3rd century, and was somewhat successful in that she conquered Egypt and ruled it until 274 CE. It was during this revolt that most scholars agree the city of Umm al-Jimal was destroyed.She managed to rule for a few years until Rome came back and conquered her and her kingdoms again. She was taken to Rome and paraded through the streets in golden chains to show the Roman citizenry the power and majesty of the Empire.

The stones used to build the town were cut from the quarries of basalt in the plains nearby and the houses, store-rooms, churches were constructed in the unique Haur’n architectural style. Because of its location on the arid, treeless plains there was absolutely no wood for building. The stone was shaped in such ways as to replace wood and nails.

Walking through the streets and buildings and churches filled me with awe and wonder. Nineteen centuries have passed and the town is still astonishingly preserved despite wars and earthquakes. One can't help feeling a sense of insignificance when surrounded by such rich history. 

The architecture is something to behold. Notice in the photographs that no concrete or mud was used in the construction, but the stones are cunningly shaped to fit perfectly, like a jigsaw puzzle.

Dry fitted stones still standing after nearly 2000 years


Floor joists, for lack of a better word; these stones supported the floors laid above

Stairs leading to the upper floors

Greek inscriptions in the stones







Notice the supports in these four pictures. The floor supports were lain on them and the floors built over that

A magnificent arch

Looking upward at the underside of a second story floor
I think I could have wandered about this town for day without tiring of it. The wonders of it! The history! It seemed I could hear, just barely, the voices from the past with stories to tell. Stories of building homes, raising families and enjoying life in this beautiful, dark town. The black basalt stones at first seemed to be drab and depressing. But seeing the ingenuity of the construction, the open lay-out made me think the ancients lived happily here until Zenobia got up to her shenanigans.

Enjoy a few more pictures before we travel to the desert castles.




Zeek and Ramzi chatting with the caretaker






Our friend, and Zeek's classmate, Ramzi





Notice the door at ground level in the background. It was the only example of white stone we saw


Ol' Big Jim hobbling round, trying to see every single thing!


First time in my life I ever saw a door too short for me to walk through!

Ramzi

Oops, looks like Ol' Big Jim has spotted a treasure on the ground

"Little" Ramzi...so tall he can't completely fit into a photo!



Capital from an old column

Notice the wall is leaning inward, probably as a result of a catapult that destroyed the central section






Visitor's Center














Remains of a church. There were many churches in this town in the Byzantine era










Amazing! An ancient Ace of Spades! Made of plastic too, and from China! Who knew they were already so active 1900 years ago??










I'd really like to know the story behind this stone, but sadly I haven't gotten it yet








Leaving Umm al-Jimal behind...for now

Tourist Police headquarters
As we left Umm al-Jimal behind I was stricken by the utter flatness of the landscape in stark comparison to the mountainous regions just a few kilometers south. I had to make a couple of pictures of the seemingly endless fields we drove through to get to our next destination.

The earth here is quite fertile and grows very nice wheat



 Our next stop was al-Hallabat, another ancient castle in the desert. Due to restoration activities we decided to save it for a later visit. I'll tell you all about it another time. We did make a few pictures at the visitors center, though. They have a very nice exhibit at the entrance showcasing some of the architectural elements that have been recovered. There is also a wall with inscribed basalt stones that is very nicely done. I was very impressed by the fact that they are generating their power through solar cells. The Tourist Police invited us into the office and served us coffee as we chatted about where we came from, what we're doing and so on. They seemed genuinely happy to see us, and treated us with that famous Arab hospitality I'm always going on about. I'm looking forward to our return visit.
















I saw this house as we were leaving al-Hallabat and couldn't resist a photo. I love the gate!

Our last stop of the day was at Qasr Azraq. It too dates back to the Roman Empire and was later taken by the Muslims. It is said that Lawrence of Arabia spent some time here during the Great Arab Revolt against Great Britain.



I saw the flowers growing at the front gate and instantly thought of my Aunt Frances. I knew I had to have pictures of them for her.



Notice the mosque built in the center of the castle keep. Stones were cannibalized from broken buildings in order to build it




Zeek lifting a stone. As it was sitting in a bowl-like structure, it might have been a grinding stone. However, I am more inclined to believe, due to its weight that it may actually have been a catapult stone

Gawd, I love a porch!

Looking out to see if you are looking back to see if I am looking back to see if you are looking back at me...



Interior of the impressively built mosque

You think climbing that stair was easy for an old fat man?

A bit easier for "Little" Ramzi



Ol' Big Jim standing in the Qibla of the mosque



I'm not sure about this place. May have been a market place. Notice the beautiful arches; again with no cement!

Exterior of mosque





The little "museum" had a few artefacts on display. Sadly the were poorly identified

I noticed quite a lot of stones carven with animal motif, much like the mosaics in the southern cities, Madaba in particular


Ahlan, ahlan al Urdun!

Welcome to Jordan!





















Come back to visit me soon. I'll have more stories to tell and sights to share!

08 May 2011

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Mother's Day - Part 2


A week or so ago I accidentally posted the Mother’s Day column on my blogsite earlier than I had planned. It turns out that the accidental posting was serendipitous in many ways. I received quite a few comments about the column; many of which resurrected more memories of Mother that I thought were worth writing about.

When looking back across half a century, some memories stand out more than others. Others are tucked away only to be taken out and enjoyed from time to time and still others are hidden until a chance word or a similar story from someone else uncovers them.

I’m reminded of one simple memory that is from late 1962 or perhaps Easter 1963. Bonita was still just a tiny baby. Mother had gotten enough fabric to make shirts. All the shirts are identical…for Tony, Michael and Dwayne. Dad always insisted that I should wear a white shirt. That year we went to Noccalulla Falls. I don’t know if it was on Easter day or sometime in that spring, but I’ve always liked this picture of us standing near the falls.

In my day my siblings and I, and probably most of the rest of the world, loved the fables of Aesop and the Grimm brothers.  Since Mother has always been a little woman, I’m not sure how she pulled it off but she would get the three of us on her lap and read those stories to us. Of course there were always the pleas for “just one more”… I’m sure that would have been the case even if she read the entire book! After she read the three of us chattered like a lap-full of magpies about this and that, but there was a recurring theme; “When I get big I’m gonna…” It always varied; from buying you a big house to getting  you a big new car. Each of us tried to outdo the other in what we were going to do “when we got big”.

When I was just a little tyke I always called Mother by her first name, Norma. It’s the only thing I’d ever heard her being called, so naturally I thought that’s what I should call her. I called out to her, as I stood in the kitchen door, “Norma!” I reckon that day she’d decided that her kid had called her by her christian just exactly enough times to get on her last nerve. So, she sat down and pulled me up onto her lap and told me how parents, brothers and sisters, friends, etc called each other by their first name. But, kids didn’t call their parents by name. “You can call me Mama, or you can call me Mother, you make up your mind, but you can’t call me Norma anymore.”  So, I chose “Mother” because she called her own Mother “Mama”. I still call her Norma Grace to this day…sometimes.

I’ve always had something of an independent streak; not to mention stubborn. When I’m sick I usually just want to be left bloody well alone. Mother could never understand that. On the thankfully few occasions I didn’t feel well Mother hovered. She meant well, bless her heart, but I swear she would worry the horns off a billy goat with the constant checking, touching, feeding and the endless rain of questions; “Are you…..”, “Do you…..” and, and and.

When I was in my very earliest teen years I went through a period of extremely bad nightmares. Even today, more than forty years later I can remember them as vividly as the nights they came to me. The depth of the horror and the consequences of the decisions I made in those dreams were so unspeakable that to call them evil and twisted is to make them seem better than they really were. Until today I have never told another living soul what was in those dreams. Naturally, Mother was insistent that I tell her what I had dreamt. I reckon she thought that knowing what I was dreaming about, she could explain them away. It’s the first time I can really remember consciously lying to her. I knew she could never possibly understand, or even accept what was going on in my bizarre dream world. So I made up a story and, by God stuck with it all these years. I’ve no idea how long those dreams lasted, but I do remember that when I woke up screaming like the very Banshee, Mother was there in seconds trying to calm me; talking to me to help me not be afraid to sleep again. My biggest fears were two. I was scared to death that if I slept again the dream would continue where it left off, and I was most afraid that someday I might let the secret of those dreams slip. I think those were the only times that it simply wasn’t possible for her, or anyone for that matter, to comfort me.

I think I mentioned Mother’s biscuits in my last column. Where I went wrong there was to omit her teacakes. Now, let me just tell you this; I’ve eaten a teacake or two in my day. Except for Mamaw Wright’s, no one could even approach the quality of Mother’s! Dozens upon dozens of times I’ve sat at the kitchen table and watched her make them. Until today, when I attempt to make them they taste (to put it somewhat delicately) like vanilla perfumed horse apples. During the war in Lebanon in the early 80’s I had the stunningly good fortune to be stationed in USS Austin (LPD-4) off the coast of Beirut. It was during this time that we lost so many Marine and Navy lives in the infamous bombing. Before that event though, Mother decided to send me a “care package”. Among other things, she filled the box with banana nut loaves and God only knows how many teacakes. I’ll tell you why God only knows in just a few seconds, but first a bit of background. During those days, one of the favorite targets for attack was the airport. As a result we sometimes didn’t receive mail for days, or even weeks. During the fighting there would be lots of activity over there as you might well imagine.

Well, one fine day UN control over the airport was regained and the mail began to flow again. In addition to a dozen or so letters I got a largish box with Mother’s return address on it. To say the box was beat up would be a gross understatement. There was even a tire mark across one corner of the box!! Now, remember this box had been in transit for a week or so before languishing in the humid heat of Beirut for another week or so. When I opened the box and discovered the contents my happiness was almost uncontainable! I like to save the best for last, so my first package to unwrap was a loaf of banana bread. My elation fell to earth like a stone. It was shot through and through with mold. I damn near ate it anyway, but eventually thought better of it. After all, I still had teacakes! NOT ONE teacake had survived intact! But, of course the nature of teacakes is that they are somewhat dry, right? So, no mold had infested them. I trotted down to the mess deck, grabbed a couple of spoons and my friends and I hoovered those teacakes with spoons! They couldn’t have been more delicious if I had been standing in Mother’s kitchen, eating them right out of the oven! The joy brought by a taste of home, when you are the other side of the world, absolutely cannot be described. I’m sure that any serviceman will tell you exactly the same thing.

Being a Mother must be the most difficult and, to a great extent, thankless job on the face of the earth. It’s a nine-day wonder to me that most women haven’t given it up as a bad idea. But, happily for those of us who are here, most have counted the costs and benefits and continued to go forth and multiply. Those of us fortunate enough to count our Mothers amongst the living are fortunate indeed. No matter how smooth or rocky the parent child relationship, no matter the distance between Mother and child, no matter the past mistakes, spats, fights, and what-have-you, Mother is always there. I’m grateful that my Mother is still here to read my words and return my love and I feel a deep sympathy for those who have suffered a loss I can’t begin to fathom.

Happy Mother’s Day…. Norma Grace!